Here are some photographs from a 204T (6.42 MB), which is very similar. You'll have to work the back shell off so you can get to the connector to disconnect the bezel. There's a small 4 conductor cable that connects the bezel to the chassis. Also be very careful as you lift the bottom of the front bezel off. This isn't catastrophic, as the edge clips will still hold the monitor together, but if you're a perfectionist, it WILL annoy you. The only additions I will add is that the corners can be tricky, and if you don't work slowly and with a narrow tool, you may break the internal tabs. I won't bother repeating the instructions that Pavel has on his page, as they're quite good. I ordered the parts (shown below) from DigiKey and in about 30 minutes for the first monitor and 15 minutes for the second, had both repaired. Searching around on the 'net turned up this handy page. Recently the hand-me-down and one of the refurbs exhibited the classic backlight failure problem (not coming on at all, coming on for a few seconds, maybe eventually staying on, sometimes at a reduced brightness). 16:9 is for movies, not for programming.įour of these monitors were purchased at one time as refurbished units, and the other was a hand-me-down from my company. I've used the widescreen monitors, and I intensely dislike them. My main impetus for repairing instead of replacing them is that I *really* like these monitors, and it's getting harder and harder to find a proper 4:3 aspect ratio monitor. I have five Samsung SyncMaster 204B 20" 1600x1200 monitors that I've acquired over the years, two of which recently developed the problem with the backlight.